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New York Times

‘Quincaillerie' Is French for ‘Hardware Store,' but It Means So Much More

The French word 'quincaillerie' is not easy to say, even for French people. For such a filigreed word, its meaning is simple: 'hardware store.' But this is not the humdrum Home Depot or Ace of France. Nay, the quincaillerie is a world of its own, full of curiosities and inspiration. More than anything, it is a uniquely old-fashioned and particularly French cultural experience. The quincaillerie used to be where metal goods for the home were fixed or sold. The droguerie, on the other hand, was the place to buy household supplies, like linseed or walnut oils, soap flakes or the materials to create dyes and paints. Over time, the two kinds of store have drifted toward each other, with some quincailleries selling paints, dyes and cleaning products, and drogueries selling a few tools and metal goods, too. But what remains true is that the French go to these stores to get advice and the materials to fix a problem, or to improve their homes. They are also bonanzas for travelers interested in an authentic French experience. They can usually be found down side streets in small towns or on squares in city centers. Without exception, every available space is filled, floor to ceiling, with drawers full of the smallest screws, keys, lightbulbs or tiny tools. Shelves are laden with local beeswax, soaps, kitchen implements, knives, brooms, dusters, baking soda, lemon furniture oil. Usually there are French-made baskets hanging from the ceiling and more things piled in buckets on the floor. The French call these stores 'caverns of Ali Baba,' after the tale of the treasure-filled cave in 'The Thousand and One Nights.' Here are six of the best of these shops across France where you might find the perfect porcelain drawer knob made in the storied Limoges factory, a beautifully crafted folding picnic knife for a wedding gift, or a bar of local soap so big that it will last until your next trip to France (one warning, many of them close for lunch). Want all of The Times? Subscribe.